While Chamonix is at the heart of our guiding activity, some of the Alps most legendary summits lie beyond the Mont Blanc massif. Our Classic Foreign Peaks program takes you to internationally renowned mountains across Italy and Switzerland: iconic 4,000-meter summits and historic alpine routes that have shaped the history of mountaineering.
From the accessible elegance of Gran Paradiso to the glaciated vastness of Monte Rosa, the exposed ridges of the Jungfrau and Mönch, or the world-famous silhouettes of the Eiger and the Matterhorn, each objective offers a unique alpine atmosphere. These climbs combine rock, snow and ice progression in spectacular high-mountain environments.
Whether you are aiming for your first 4,000-meter summit or preparing for a major alpine challenge, our IFMGA guides design a tailored progression adapted to your level, experience and goals. Each program blends technical instruction, acclimatisation and safe decision-making to give you the best chance of success on some of Europe’s most iconic peaks.
Located within what was the first European National Park created in 1922, Gran Paradiso (4061m), is the only 4000m peak which stands entirely in Italy. Well known as one of the easiest 4000m ascents in the Alps, this pleasant summit is one of the main targets for mountaineers aiming to achieve their first 4000m summit.
Gran Paradiso offers a variety of terrain throughout the ascent. The route starts with easy walking on grassy slopes where you will be able to spot some of the national park’s wild animals. You will then travel across a steep glacier avoiding the crevasses, which will take you to the final rock scramble to reach the summit and the famous Madonna statue at the top. At Chamonix Vertical, we like this mountain as we love the Italian lifestyle !
Day 1 – Approach to the Vittorio Emanuele hut 2775m
After an initial drive through the Mont-Blanc Tunnel, we will head to Valsavarenche valley, one of the many entry points to the Gran Paradiso National Park. We will park at the Pont carpark (1930m) from where our ascent to the Vittoria Emanuele hut will begin.
Day 2 – Gran Paradiso 4061m
Leaving the refuge after an early breakfast, we will begin the day’s ascent. Before travelling across the glacier, we will put on our crampons and rope up as the slopes become steeper and the crevasses emerge along the way.
Note: this route can be done as suggested in two days or with the option of an extra day with an additional peak : Tresenta (3609m).
For this route, we suggest climbing two jewels of the Swiss Bernese Oberland, the Mönch and the Jungfrau, two of the area’s most accessible 4000ers. These alpine summits are nothing short of spectacular and give you the chance to climb some wonderful, exposed ridges. They require solid foot placements and crampon technique. This route can be done in two or three days, depending on your preference.
Mönch (4107m), which means ‘monk’ in German, has four angular ridges, each of which can be climbed from the Mönchsjoch Hut. For this option, we have chosen the standard route via the SE Ridge. Located directly above the hut, this a fine climb up an exposed snowy ridge with several easy rock steps. We will descend back to the valley via the Jungfraujoch Railway.
The Jungfrau (4158m) is the third highest peak in the mountain range and one to tick off your bucket list. Jungfrau translates to ‘virgin’ in German and is supposedly named as such as it was left untouched and unclimbed until the 19th century. This beautiful route, once considered inaccessible, also goes from the Mönchsjoch Hut and leads you onto steep mixed snow ice terrain. The climb up to the summit is sometimes easier than the descent, so good technique is required for this route !
Programme :
The Monte Rosa Massif is an ice-covered mountain massif that sits between Switzerland and Italy. Straddling the Swiss Valais and Italian Piedmont regions, its highest peak, Dufourspitze, (4634m), is the second highest summit in the Alps and the highest mountain in Switzerland.
The first ascent, from Zermatt, dates back to 1855, when a team of eight climbers, (including three local guides) finally summited the peak after a long series of attempts. Since that historic 1st August, many climbers have succeeded in their dream of reaching the summit of this great peak.
Much has happened since then in the world of mountaineering, but Monte Rosa continues to charm mountaineers with its extensive glacial terrain. The impressive glaciers through which our route passes will leave you in awe, and you will discover the true meaning of ‘glacial progression’. The final ridge to the top makes all your efforts worthwhile and you will be rewarded with breathtaking views over the Alpine arch.
2-day program (3-day option possible) :
The Eiger is one of the most spectacular mountains in the Swiss Bernese Oberland. Despite being just short of 4000m, (3970m) it is one of the most coveted peaks in the Alps. Famous for its distinct shape, the Eiger is the biggest north face in the Alps and holds an important place in the history of mountaineering.
The mountain was conquered for the first time in 1858 by Swiss guides via the west flank. The north face, which gained the name ‘The last great problem of the Alps’ had to wait another 80 years before a mixed Austrian-German team successfully climbed it in 1958. They climbed almost 2000m up the north face to open what is now known as the Heckmair route.
The route we suggest goes up the east flank and is known as the Mittellegi ridge. It was first climbed in 1921 by Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, Fritz Steuri and Yuko Maki. The route is made up of a magnificent 2km-long ascent that will take us directly to the top of the Eiger. The adventure will then continue down the southern ridge to the Mönchjoch hut.
Example programme: 6 days (5 days of activity)
Huts : We will sleep in 2 huts: the Torino refuge on the Italian side of Mont-Blanc, and the Mittellegi refuge at the bottom of the Mittellegi ridge. (3 hours from Eissmer train station)
Climbing description :
One of the most iconic summits of the Alps, the Matterhorn dominates the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its near-symmetric pyramidal peak is world famous and easily recognisable, with one of the biggest north faces in the Alps. It was first climbed in 1865 by a team of mountaineers, including Croz and Whymper, who went up the Northeast Ridge, which is also known as the Hörnli Ridge or Swiss Normal Route. Although a successful ascent, the descent was tragic with four of the seven climbers falling to their death on their way down.
Only a few days later, an Italian party led by Carrel summited from the Italian side on the Leone route, which is now the normal route chosen by Italian guides.
Climbing this spectacular route will not leave you indifferent, with beautiful views over Zermatt as well as Italy. Come and join us on this route to experience the magnificent alpine atmosphere.
Programme: 6 days (5 days of activity)
We will sleep in 2 huts :
Climbing description : The Hörnli ridge is rocky to begin with which becomes snowy and icy after the shoulder in the final section of the climb. It is graded as AD+. The route is very long, with 1200m of elevation which translates to about 5-6 hours of climbing. At the most difficult points of the climb, the route is equipped with fixed gear, however the high altitude adds to the difficulty of the climb.
Descent : The descent should not be underestimated as it will take the same amount of time, if not longer, than the ascent. Good footwork and excellent down-climbing technique will be needed to make sure you get down safely.
Required level : You must be in good physical condition and be technically experienced. Mountain experience on snow and rock is required, minimum PD/AD experience, as well as good climbing level.
(0 reviews)
From1 150,00 €
(0 reviews)
From0,00 €
Top Destination
International Mountain Guides
Follow Us
